|
Post by redstroke on Mar 22, 2006 17:59:07 GMT -5
Last time I checked prices the HL was $60 more than a stock. If I remember right stock $90, hl $150. I am kind of on a budget, meaning I am not just going to go out and buy anyhthing, but if a good product like that traingle snorkkit is recommended, I would rather buy one than spend my time making one. O.k. I think you have me convinced on the cam, cut the decompressor off and run with it. Clutch ?s Sorry I dont have my manual in front of me, change clutch is the one disegaged by the shifter when you are in between gears correct? If so, what do you replace, frictions and steels, or just frictions? The centrifical clutch for lack of better words, gets the heavier spring and the leave the fingers alone or replace? Power wise I would like to make as much power as poss with out alot of $$ and still be reliable. I am thinking, Jet kit or dial a jet? Snorkkit raise all vents Muffler, tractor muffler or perfromance? K&N w/prefilter, or is there something better? Lift kit, which brand? Pull start leak stop Chop the decomp Clutch kit and r&r both clutches Frnt bearings sealed who is cheapest? Possibly the disk brake conversion, I saw one for $350 for all 3 i believe.
End goal hopefully have as much power with the 27"mudlites, as it does with the bald stock 25" And Jake tell me this is better than going to a kodiak and just throwing my tires on it?
|
|
|
Post by MuddnMason on Mar 22, 2006 18:46:31 GMT -5
Out of that list, I would go with the jet kit, snorkit, Uni or Twin Air filter (I have the Uni). Lift kits, I have the HL, but Xtreme Products has one that is just a tick shy of 2 inches, which puts the axles in less bind than the HL. I also own the pull start leak shield, but have not installed it. I have the pull rope cover sealed up. It has been gutted. For the front wheel bearings, again, check XPATV. I am running those now. When I got them, they cut me a hella deal on them. XPATV also has a disc brake kit for the front, just a little cheaper than HL. I have them, and they are wonderful. A solid rotor and thicker as well. They are coming out with a rear disc conversion soon. Where did you see that kit for all 3? The fronts alone are $350~ and the rear is about that as well.
|
|
|
Post by redstroke on Mar 22, 2006 19:05:26 GMT -5
Thanks for the advice, it was 350.00 for frnts only you are correct
|
|
|
Post by Jake on Mar 23, 2006 7:13:46 GMT -5
And Jake tell me this is better than going to a kodiak and just throwing my tires on it? I can't tell you that. Most machines out there are good. Do YOU like the Kodiak better? then maybe that's the way to go. I personally like the Foreman. Speed seems not to be an issue, because I ride fairly slow, ride seems not to be an issue (although the Prefex kit was appreciated). It turns my tires fine, and in general, it just feels right. Buttons in the right place, right size, IMO the right bike for me. Personal choice here is going to get you a lot further than anybody's blessing. That said, it sounds like if you're keeping yours, you have a good list of items. Don't count on the Dial a jet to be enough. Maybe, but you may have to change the main a bit to get it in the right range. Sealed bearings work best with factory seals outside them to protect the more fragile internal seals. Sealing your own pull start is just as effective as buying a kit. Sealing a new(ish) one or one in great condition will still leave you a rope starter in an emergency too. Check out www.servicehonda.com for honda parts. If their "browser fussy" microfiche doesn't work well for you, check out www.ronnies.com, which will list a part number for every item you place in the shopping cart. PITA, but if you're getting more than a part or two, it'll save you big $$$.
|
|
|
Post by redstroke on Mar 23, 2006 12:02:31 GMT -5
End goal hopefully have as much power with the 27"mudlites, as it does with the bald stock 25". Is this what I will experience? How about the exhaust anybody do it the cheap way with the allis chalmers muffler? Thanks for all the advice.
|
|
|
Post by MuddnMason on Mar 23, 2006 13:05:54 GMT -5
I am looking at the FO14 tractor muffler my self. For $20 can you blame me?
|
|
|
Post by redstroke on Mar 23, 2006 17:08:46 GMT -5
No not at all, anybody have feedback on running these mufflers?
|
|
|
Post by MuddnMason on Mar 23, 2006 18:13:27 GMT -5
There is a lot of people on Highlifter's forum running them. Say they provide an excellent power boost, similar to the HMF.
|
|
|
Post by redstroke on Mar 29, 2006 17:42:28 GMT -5
Let me know how the muffler works if you try it muddnmason, anyone else here running a tractor muffler? Seems dead here the past week.
|
|
|
Post by TechForeman on Mar 29, 2006 19:45:38 GMT -5
i have hear about them but havent seen one. kinda curious bout them tho. i just want something that is too loud and hurts the engine(like taking a baffle out). if you find a pic then post it. want to see what it looks like
|
|
|
Post by MuddnMason on Mar 29, 2006 20:45:38 GMT -5
Tractor muffler pics?
|
|
|
Post by MuddnMason on Mar 29, 2006 20:49:48 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by redstroke on Mar 30, 2006 18:48:55 GMT -5
I am going to get a FO-14 tractor muffler and try it. $20 option sounds very good. I am going to jet up to a 135 oem jet, and do the triangle snorkel and uni. Cluches and cam are next on the list.
Thanks for that link muddnmason it was very informative.
|
|
|
Post by Jake on Mar 30, 2006 20:15:33 GMT -5
I'm not taking a stand for or against the mufflers. I don't like loud, so I don't care much for many aftermarket ATV pipes either. I will say though that the universal muffler hangar used in that picture might as well not be there, and the head pipe is going to crack in short order. If you're putting something on that needs a custom hangar, make sure it gives a bit, but holds the muffler in place without bolting it to the head pipe, which wasn't meant to support ANY weight.
|
|
|
Post by MuddnMason on Mar 31, 2006 12:51:20 GMT -5
Why do you say that Jake? How is the head pipe going to crack?
|
|