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Post by BLang on Oct 29, 2004 19:48:58 GMT -5
This guys rubicon at the shop has some problems. this bike has everything that you could imagine on it and more so he has everything performance imagined. anyway, he has a problem with his motor locking up on compression stroke and his starter wont turn it over cause theres too much compression. what do people do to fix this ive heard of putting two batterys on the bike but does this work and if not what to do. thanks
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Post by 1badrancher on Oct 29, 2004 22:44:52 GMT -5
yes it does work. my friends 400 foreman has so much compression it takes 2 batteries to start it
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Post by hellbilly on Oct 30, 2004 20:33:26 GMT -5
overboard?
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Post by 1badrancher on Oct 31, 2004 0:12:42 GMT -5
what do you mean......... overboard?
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Post by BLang on Oct 31, 2004 16:20:41 GMT -5
i was wondering the same, maybe he thinks the rubicon has too much stuff on it?
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Post by bigredforeman550 on Nov 8, 2004 22:12:58 GMT -5
dual batteries is not hard to do just have to give up your back cargo area for the extra battery. I have been trying to seal mine up so i can make it a clean install but have not go the bugs out of the sealing part yet.
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Post by Jake on Nov 25, 2004 20:36:14 GMT -5
The problem is not that anything is 'locked up" exactly, just that the starter and starting system is being asked to do way more work than it was ever meant to. That brings out weak links, and finds minor faults that would otherwise go unnoticed. Dual batteries help a lot, but more than a fix, they are a better problem preventor, and because of a long explination that I won't get into, together they are far less likely to overheat or burn up your starter motor than a single weak battery would be. (Backwards, I know. Trust me when I say it's a long explination, but that's how it is).
Take the bike, a volt meter, and a couple of free moments, and you can entirely test the starter secondary circuits yourself, relatively easily.
Set the bike up where you can get at it. Clip your red lead on the battery positive post. The lead part of the battery, NOT the metal end of the wire or the bolt. That's necessary to check the battery connection. You'll be using the black lead to test with at first.
Establish battery voltage (B+) by touching the negative post. Should be twelve six or higher, but go with whatever you have for now, provided it's above ten and a half or so.
Now follow the positive wire to the starter solenoid, and from the solenoid to the starter motor. Get yoruself access to the starter motor terminal, and put the black lead against it. Now crank (or attempt to crank) the motor. If it cranks well, there should be no more than eight tenths of a volt registered on the meter. If it's more, work back to the solenoid posts, and finally the battery terminal until you can isolate the "blockage" (read-bad connection) that is causing the voltage drop. Fix what's broke, not what isn't. If the starter actually "stalls" and won't turn the engine over, you can see as much as three volts dropped and from experience it'll be all right, although you will never find a spec to tell you so. If it turns over hard, your result could be in the middle some place. Use judgement.
Next, clip the black volt meter lead on to the negative battery post. Again, right on the lead portion.
Take the red lead to test now, and touch it to the starter case. Crank the engine. Again, the ground circuit should show less than eight tenths of a volt. More is a problem unless the starter stalls. On the ground side, a stalles starter still shouldn't give you more than a volt and seven tenths or so. Just like before, look at the reading and use judgement.
For an example, let's say that the engine cranked easily, and you saw two point nine volts dropped on the ground side. (the same theory applies to the positive side, but per the positive setup). Move the test lead from the starter to the engine block and retest. If the voltage is now what you would expect, then the corrosion is under the starter where it mounts. Still a bad reading, move back to the engine ground wire, and touch the wire end, not the bolt or engine. If that is where you loose yoru voltage drop, then that connection is corroded and needs cleaning. So forth, and so on.
With that done, you know it works like it should, then is the time to add a second battery.
First, you need two identical batteries in the same condition. New is best. The second should be mounted securely, usually upright depending on type and design. Lots of people modify the "trunk" to hold it.
Hitch the batteries up positive to positive, negative to negative. Basically, you have just installed a built in "jump start" every time you hit the starter button.
A word of caution- If you have two batteries, don't let them get too low. Have a battery charger handy at home. Give up on your winch before it runs them totally dead. They can draw too much to recharge, and overheat the charging system. Not good for the regulator or stator coils.
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