carb jetting=no power. HELP!!!!

[gaforman]

Alright, I stated asking about this in the First post here thread but I decided to start a new one in the right place. I need major help. I installed a triangle snorkit, FO-14 tractor muffler, and Dyno jet kit DJ126 main jet. I had a little trouble getting the jet holder back in. I then put in the dyno jet needle becasue the stock one felt really snug. I put the clip on the lowest point with one washer under it. My mix screw is turned out 2 and half turns. When the foreman warms up it runs like crap, back fires, and has no power. Please help me. Let me know what to try next.

[gaforman]

Either this place is dead or no one wants to help. But anyway on highlifter i figued out i needed a bigger jet. I started high and came down. i'm at dj134 now it is much better, but as i near red line in each gear its cutting out some so i guess i'm still a little rich right? do i drop down to another jet or with the mixture screw work this out, and if so which way does what. do i go out or in. i have the stock needle in set the way triangle recomends. let me know guys.
this is a lot more frustrating than i though.

[MuddnMason]

If you are running the DJ main jet, you need to run the DJ needle. The DJ is more tapered than the stock. It is designed to work with that jet, just like the stock needle is designed to work for the stock jets.

Have you did any plug chops to see if you are running lean/rich at WOT (wide open throttle)? I'll see if I can find the post on HL for you for doing a plug chop.

[MuddnMason]

This is a post by GrizzHopper off the HL forums. He discusses in detail what a plug chop is, as well as how to do them.

I copied and pasted this from another topic I just posted it in.

A plug chop is a very useful method of taking a look at the combustion efficiency resultant of the fuel/air mixture. High RPM's is NOT what this is about. It is air / fuel flow. At nearly any RPM above idle.

To perform a plug chop on the Grizz (or any other automatic), is a bit more tricky than a standard tranny, but the idea is the same.

The objective, is to run the warmed engine at WOT (wide open throttle) for a short time and kill the engine and stop its movement quickly. Then pull the plug and inspect it's color.

Shutting off the ignition is easy, but "stopping" the engine's rotation is more difficult because the engine braking will continue to drag the engine even after you kill it.

My solution to this problem, is to do the plug chop run on an uphill grade. Not neccesarily a steep grade, just enough. Once you are ready to 'CHOP" the airflow, hit the kill switch, and brake hard to get it stopped ASAP. Dirt will help a lot with this as your traction will improve as you brake against an uphill slope.

If you could stop it "INSTANTLY" from a WOT run, the plug chop would be most accurate.

Rules of the game:
The plug chop should be done ONLY with a "CLEAN" air filter and a new or at least very clean spark PLUG. If you alter the airflow (new pipe, new filter, etc...) after the jetting proceedure is painstakingly done, expect to start over again from the begining, without passing "GO". Meaning, make all the changes you expect to do "BEFORE" starting this.

Lean can cause expensive damage. DON'T run lean. Period.
Rich can waste some power and stink, but will not cause damage.
Rich is better than lean. DON'T run lean. Period.

Did I mention, don't run lean?

I warm up the engine with the old plug, then switch over to a new plug.

AFTER THE CHOP...
After you have the machine stopped (in a safe place), get your plug wrench out of your tool pouch and remove the plug. Look at it's color.

White = Lean. DON'T run lean. Period.
TAN(-) = Slightly lean ..."@ the throttle level chopped at". (WOT, 1/2, etc...)
TAN = good mixture ..."@ the throttle level chopped at". (WOT, 1/2, etc...)
TAN(+) = slightly rich ..."@ the throttle level chopped at". (WOT, 1/2, etc...)
Black = Way rich, may or may not stink and/or perform poorly.


...TAN2 is about the color of a paper grocery bag. Just about right.

The exact colors will vary depending upon several factors, including local fuel quality, humidity, temperature, etc...

All the above should be performed several times for an accurate average.
All the above should be performed for 3 different throttle levels, WOT, 3/4, 1/2)

[MuddnMason]

Also, in addition to the chop at three different levels, you need to do it at idle as well. General tips here:

mixture screw--idle (will have to readjust idle screw afterwards to get idle rpms right)
needle-- 1/2 throttle
main jet--WOT

[gaforman]

Thanks for the info. I will install the dyno jet needle tomorrow and run a plug chop and get back with you. Thanks for the help.