96 foreman front differential

[bodizofa]

what does it take to open up the front differential on a 96 foreman . I need to replace the bearings on a project. thanks 'bodizofa

[Jake]

10mm wrench. 12mm wrench. 14mm wrench. Not a whole lot at all just to "open it up" and find out what's damaged. The side bearings should come right out of the case, but if not a gentle tap on the outside of the case usually drops them right out. There are two thin washers, or shims, one on each side of the differential. They sit between the differential and the side bearings. Keep track of each one carefully, because they are exactly measured and selected to set the gear backlash and bearing preload. Simple stuff, just PUT THEM BACK WHERE THEY CAME FROM, don't switch side to side.

Removing the pinion gear, if that's amoung the bearings that need changing, can be more of a chore. You'll need to have (or borrow, or improvise) a special wrench to remove the retaining nut for that, and then a puller to get it out. The big bearing (on the pinion gear) needs just a two or three jaw puller, and there is another shim (washer) underneath of that, which must be put back just as it was found, just like the two on the carrier. Inside the case where the pinion was, there is a second bearing that the pinion sits on. That one can be a bugger to change, you have to reach inside the hole beside the bearing, move the retaining wire ring until the gap is just visible, get ahold of it with needle nosed pliers, and pull that out through the hole, then the bearing can be removed.

Remember that if the bearings are damaged, it allows relative motion in the carrier or pinion gear, depending which bearing(s) failed. That tears up seals. You'll want to consider replacing those while you're in there.

Also, if there is any visible wear at all on the gear teeth, they are going to self destruct in short order. Don't put much into saving the rest of the differential. Gears can be purchased (in matched sets), and a matched set MUST stay together. To purchase the gears (OEM parts, online at 30% less than retail), plus new bearings, new seals, new shims (aftermarket at 50% of retail plus shipping) will cost you exactly the same as buying a whole new, factory assembled, factory reliable, bolt in, ready to rock differential assembly.

Gears (Retail, or "over the counter") $355.51
Gears (Online, OEM Honda parts) $234.68
Bearings, shims, seals, sealant, etc $80 to $120 depending on local availability.

Whole assembly (Retail) $549.64
Whole assembly (Onlinel) $362.82

It hardly makes sense to "rebuild" one if it needs more than a bearing or two.

[MuddnMason]

Jake, if I ever have to do any major work, it would be well worth my money to fly you down here to Georgia to work on my foreman. You amaze me with every post. You must work on Foremans A WHOLE LOT.

[Jake]

I work on mine a whole lot. The engine has probably been torn down six times for various reasons. (Full of water, full of mud, full of sand, broken shift fork, full of dirt, broken engine case), and I don't think there is any part that is untouched. I'll work on friends as well. Usually for a little bit of nothing, not a side job or anything. Depending on who and what, I usually let (make) them do most of the "doing" anyhow. I watch (make sure everything is done right), make judgement calls (is this bearing re-useable), sometimes help when there's a chance of breaking stuff (prying apart engine or gear cases, driving hard bearings out of soft aluminum without a "proper" driver). It's easier (at least for me) to learn more by teaching anyhow.
And yes, I do keep a service manual handy, to verify spec's on critical items, and for the electrical schematics and such.

[bodizofa]

I have all the bolts out but do you need a tool to get the cases apart?

[Jake]

Lay the differential on a work surface with the pinion facing you, with the bolt heads (or the side that used to have the bolt heads) facing up. Almost exactly to the left and right of the "axle hole", between the case halves you will see that there is a "groove" that is cast into them. (You may need to dig some dirt out). Those are screwdriver slots to "pop" it open with a flathead screwdriver. Just "crack" it on one side, then "crack" the other. Once you brake the gasket on the first side, things start to "wiggle" and you'll see what you're doing better.

[bodizofa]

jake you are the man... thanks it came right apart...todd