Start-in-gear for a ES

[Foreman Rider]

I heard a romor that you had to do something else to install a start-in-gear to a ES becasue it messes with it. Is this true?
Ethan

[Foreman Rider]

This is the main reason i was wondering

www.highlifter.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=904305&an=0&page=0#904305

[Ezrider]

Yup I have tryed 2 one on a rancher and one on a foreman. I dont know what it is but I think honda may have changed some wiring or a difference in the ECU after 2001, I never could get either one to work just right, however the earlyer modles I have been told work great.

[TechForeman]

has anyone gotten the start in gear switch to work fine on an ES? i was wondering bc i want to put one on next weekend at the latest. also, does anyone have a diagram of how to do it? i understand the directions, i just want to make sure i do it right tho. thanks.

[Jake]

It has been done on ES models, but you can not use the switch method, instead you have to chase wires (one is easy, one is hard) and make perminant grounds at two different places, dividing the neutral circuit in half, leaving half of it switched as it was originally designed and half of it perminantly "thinking" that it is in neutral.
On the earlier ones it's risky, because you do it, it works beautifully, and then there is some combination of events (Don't ask, because no one really knows) that will cause module failures. I believe it's a combination of driver selected conditions, because as I am told, about a quarter of them will repeatedly "fry" ecu modules, and the rest never have any issues what so ever.
The newer (??2001?? to 2004) handle it better, but there is a shunt (looks like a fuse) that has to be removed to make it work properly.

There is obviously some risk of damaging electronic components any time you modify the basic design of the electrical functions it controls, but I'll dig around and I'm pretty sure I still have some information from some posts from other forums in years past. I don't know If I still have all the ins and outs, but I can at least get you started in the right direction. Stay tuned.

[TechForeman]

Thanks Jake, I appreciate it.

[Jake]

OK, what I thought I had is a little shy, but here is what I do have. Also, I'm not going to make a "materials list" since if you can't come up with that, you really should be getting some outside assistance with this, if not for the initial setup, then just to verify that all is well afterward and such. Use good quality terminal ends, heat shrink wrap if possible, or some other sealer. It only takes a few extra minutes and saves a lifetime of confusing diagnosis later.

For the older ones:
First, find the starter solenoid, and the two small wires going to it. You'll have to cut the light green w/ red wire. Working carefully, you can follow it back nearer to the plug and not have to add in any sections of wire. (Please have the forethought to leave enough wire to work with should you decide to return it to stock). You'll need to run the wire from the solenoid side of the cut to a good solid ground. The wire from the harness (plug) side of the cut should be capped securely so as not to allow moisture into an otherwise sealed harness system.

Next you'll have to find the ICM, or the ignition control module. This is often called the "CDI" and is one of black modules that you'll find inside the front inner fenders, hanging off the frame in rubber hangers. If memory serves (and if it's hangar is in the right spot), then the medium sized module on the right should be the one. Maybe I'm dislexic though, becuse it has really been a while since I've done this. The other two by the way are the fan control unit (that controlls the fan based on several factors), and the electronic control unit, that makes all the ES stuff happen (or not happen) every time you hit the button. Anyhow, at the IGNITION control unit, (ICU), you'll have to find the same green w/ red wire that you cut before. You'll be doing the same thing again, except this time you'll have to CAREFULLY cut back a short distance of the harness loom in order to get enough wire to work with. You'll need to cut the wire, and perminantly apply the ICM end of the wire to a good solid ground source. The harness end will again need to be carefully and securely capped. Were it me, I'd loosely tape the wires up to duplicate the original loom as well.

At this point, you have the ignition cutout "fooled" into allowing a spark at speeds below idle, without the neutral light, because it always sees the neutral light. You have the solenoid "fooled" into thinking that the neutral light is always on as well, so it'll allow the engine to crank upon your request at any time. By separating those two components however, you have allowed the gear position switch to still monitor the shift drum position correctly, the ECU (shift computer) to still monitor the gear position switch correctly with no false inputs, and the neutral light on the pod will still remain functional.

Here's where I can't find what I'd like to find.
I think it started in 2002, but I'm really not sure. There is a fuse labled as a "shunt". That was the subject of several lengthy conversations and a couple of guys (with my help, but against my advice if you know what I mean) went ahead with being the guinea pigs for the operation. One of them figured out that the shunt had to be removed, but I can not for the life of me remember why, or if there were any other compensations needed for removing that. I no longer have access to a newer wiring schematic to try to jog my mind, and after several years surely the posts are no longer at their respective bulletin boards.